Everyday Carry Backpack Project
Ever since I got my Sailrite LSZ-1 sewing machine, I have wanted to try to build my own backpack. This is the end result.
I have been watching videos on YouTube, and studying some packs I have for ideas. This will be a small daypack, suitable for carrying a laptop and a few other Everyday Carry (EDC) items. I'm starting to see why a quality USA-made EDC/Day pack costs $200-300.
I'm using 1000d Cordura (Foliage green) for the exterior, and 500d Cordura (Coyote Tan) for the inside lining. I have another pack with the same color scheme that I really like so I'm using it to figure out sizing, etc. It can be seen in the background in some of the photos.
I traded a friend for the old pack a few years ago. It is not branded so it was probably a prototype, possibly by FirstSpear.
Most of the supplies were acquired from www.rockywoods.com. Their service and products have been very good so far. I will continue to use them for any future projects like this since Sailrite and SailMakerSupply.com do not typically carry Cordura, webbing, etc. in military colors.
This (and most packs) typically have four components. They are (in the order I built them)
- Carry straps
- Back panel (the panel that goes against your back)
- Side / Bottom panels (mine ended up being a continuous loop)
- Front Panel (the panel that is seen by those behind you.
My intent was to keep the interior spartan but allow it to be customized with MOLLE pouches via PALS webbing.
The pack does have a frame sheet (1/16" Kydex) in the back panel, along with an ID holder pocket and a document pocket. The front panel has an internal zipper pocket. I added PALS webbing inside the front panel and built two zipper pouches that attach to it. Externally, there are no pockets - only PALS webbing for pouches.
All told, it took about 20 hours to make this, and cost about $75 in materials. Considering that I enjoy doing this, my time is free, and I got a really nice pack that would set me back $200 - 300 in return. Without further ado, here is a summary of the build.
Step 1: Templates
I used cardboard and made templates for the straps using another pack that I found to be comfortable. I also made a template for the back/front panels. I actually made two because the first one failed to take into account the 1/2" seam allowance around the outside. I found making both helped.
Step 2: Back Straps
Using the template, I cut 1/4" Volara foam (closed-cell foam used on automotive tops). I got a few yards of it on eBay for cheap money.
I traced the exterior of the straps from 1000d Cordura (leaving the 1/2" seam allowance too). Remember to make one the mirror image of the other so you don't end up with two left straps.
The interior of the straps is made from "spacer mesh". It is a foam product used for anything that contacts the body to keep you cool. Rockywoods had this stuff in Coyote Brown to match nicely with the Foliage Green.
The two halves are sewn inside out (1/2" seam allowance) leaving the wider end open, then it is turned rightside out (using that broom stick), and the foam is carefully inserted. Inserting the foam was a pain, but it helped to curve it like a taco shell.
Here you can see my other pack that I used for sizing, and for the strap pattern. The spacer mesh matched it exactly.
Sewing the straps with my Sailrite LSZ-1. (Yes, the Jack Rackham Jolly Roger sticker was a spare, and fit on the side of the machine ;-)
The completed straps with the foam inserted.
I sewed 1" webbing down the length of the strap, leaving enough excess at the top and bottom for the lifter straps at the top, and to attach it to the pack at the bottom. I attached 2" webbing (2 layers) at the top of the strap. This will be used to attach it to the back panel.
Step 2: Back Panel and attaching straps
The back panel has a "base" comprised of 1000d Cordura. You can see the two layers of the 2" webbing that has been x-stitched to the top of each. I layed out an angle (just sort of winged this based on other packs) and sewed them in. I then put a horizontal piece of 2" webbing across them and sewed that down and trimmed off the bottom of the 2" webbing coming off the straps. (sorry - wish I took more pictures of this)
Below the 2" horizontal webbing, I attached another 1/4" piece of Volara Closed-cell foam, and a piece of spacer mesh, and sewed it down making channels. The pattern really does not matter.
Step 3: More back panel work
I ordered a piece of 12" x 24" 1/4" Kydex on eBay to make the back panel. I used the smaller cardboard template to trace it, and cut it with sheet metal shears. I sanded the edges to remove any burrs that could tear the cloth later. This had to be sized when I installed it into the final pack some more later.
The inside of the back panel is made from 500d Cordura (Coyote Brown). I put a piece of 1" Velcro to form a pocket for the frame sheet.
To this, I made a little ID holder, and put on my custom tags. I also made another pocket for documents. I put binding along the top edge of this.
The inner and out parts of the back panel (with the straps attached to the outer) were held together with paper clips, then sewn together with a 1/2" seam.
This was a great milestone because now I could actually try it on for size, and it is starting to look like a real backpack.
Step 4: Side Panels
This step involved some careful measurements for determining where to position the zipper on the pack, and to build in a "storm flap" in the rear zipper plaque. I also had to take into account seam allowance, and the overlaps for the zippers.
For the main zipper, I used a #10 YKK continuous coil zipper and fortunately found Coyote Brown to match the interior liner. While it does not match the exterior Foliage Green, it goes well with it in my opinion.
I usually hate sewing zippers. But, I got a zipper foot for my machine and it makes it a LOT easier. Why Sailrite does not just give you one with the machine is beyond me.
The zipper will go completely around the pack and stop about 2" along the bottom so the whole pack can open up like a clam shell.
The wider rearward zipper plaque was cut to 9" to allow 7 1/2" of exposure, with seam and zipper allowances. The narrower forward zipper plaque was 2" including seam allowance. I carefully measured the distance around the circumference of the pack to have it be 43 1/2" when assembled. It actually worked. Measure twice, cut once.
I would eventually cut off the ugly noisy metal zipper pulls and replace them with parachute cord (12" lengths) with an overhand knot and shrink tubing. Very tactical looking ;-)
Now, I need to add the carry handle and the triglides for the lifter straps. The carry handle is 2" webbing, with a 1" piece sewn over it. This is all x-stitched in place. I wish I made the 2" strap a little narrower to fit my hand. I discovered this after using the pack for a week for work.
Next, I decided to over complicate the project and add PALS webbing to the sides - 6 rows with 4 channels each. These look great, add strength to the pack, and allow the user to add external pouches as required for the mission. My machine is not very good at bar tacking so I ended up just doing 3 rows of straight stitching for each webbing joint.
(While technically part of an earlier step, my buckles came in later so I could now finish the carry straps with the nice Coyote Brown ITW Nexus plastic side-release buckles.
Step 5: Bottom Panel
I attached the side panel to the back panel to get an accurate measurement of the bottom panel. To this, I also over complicated it by adding more PALS webbing. This could come in handy if the user wants to add a small pouch on the bottom of the pack. The "X" is for a drain grommet. I do not have any that size but that can easily be added later once I get the right size grommets and tools.
Step 6: Assembling Side/Bottom Panels to Back Panel.
I raided my house for every single binder clip I could find. I attached both panels together. Then I stapled them using a common office stapler, and sewed them together with a 1/2" seam allowance. I went very slowly here, operating the machine by hand to make sure I did not screw it up. All the planning was time well spent because the sewing it together was easy and anti-climatic.
Once I was satisfied with the stitching, I put on internal binding to clean it up. I did NOT use my binding attachment for this... the material is much too thick for it. So, I resorted to the binder clips again, which worked fine. Just sew up to a clip, remove it, and keep sewing until you hit the next clip. I used a zig-zag stitch for this step (the only ones on the pack) to assure the binding did not miss the material underneath.
Once this step is complete, I can hook up the lifter straps, and the bottoms of the straps.
Step 7: Designing and building the front panel.
There are multiple layers to this panel. There is also Velcro internally and externally for patches, etc. The internal panel has a zipper to create a pouch. This and the layer behind it are composed of 500d Coyote Brown Cordura. Above the zipper is a field of Velcro. I used a #8 YKK zipper here.
The external part of this panel is 1000d Foliage Green Cordura. To this was applied yet more PALS webbing (4 rows of 6 channels), and a field of Velcro for Tacti-cool patches. The inner panel received 2 rows of 6-channel PALS for internal pockets.
The 3 panels were then assembled with binder clips, staples and eventually sewn. Then, I realized I missed a critical step and forgot to include points for the compression straps. It was too late at this point so I had to improvise, and it ended up not being so bad. More on that later.
Step 8: Assembling the Front Panel to the pack.
More binder clips, more staples, and more sewing. In the second shot, you can see I am using a regular foot on the machine. You can see the staples. Any holes from the staples is hidden by the binding anyway. This is a very cheap and effective way of temporarily connecting assemblies together for sewing.
After this was complete, I binded the seam with 1" Coyote Brown binding tape. I did NOT staple this but used just the clips again. You can see here how I sew up to the next clip, remove it, and keep sewing. I did this step cranking the machine by hand to go nice and slow and assure proper stitching.
Step 9: Fitting the frame sheet
The frame sheet did not exactly fit in the back internal pocket designed for it, but I expected that. I trimmed it carefully with sheet metal shears, and sanded the edges smooth. Some pack manufacturers will sew binding directly on the frame sheet. My machine is powerful, but not powerful enough to punch thru a 1/6" piece of Kydex.
Step 10: Internal Pockets
I intentionally put in two rows of PALS to I could suspend internal pockets. My former EDC pack had these and were great for holding my mouse, power cords, keys, etc. These were assembled out of 500d Cordura, with a #8 YKK continuous-coil zipper. I made the MOLLE connecting thingies from 1" Velcro strips and scrap webbing. These were sewn on the back of the pouch at the right distance to align with the PALS (I think 6" apart).
The zipper pulls were cut off and new ones made from 12" of parachute cord, with an overhand knot, and a piece of electrical shrink tubing to hold them together. A lighter is used to shrink it.
The pouches were installed as shown below. A Velcro-backed Calico Jack Patch was added for effect ;-)
Conclusion
Here you can see the new pack on the right compared to the existing pack I had. The color is definitely different, but I like it. The size is nearly identical. People ask me why did I build one when I already have one? Because I can (and did!)
This was a fun project. I don't think I could ever build these for a business as it is too time consuming. I would have to mass-produce them to make it cost effective and I simply do not have the time for that. My next step for this project will be a pouch for the front panel that will be removable. I'll use the same construction techniques that I used here, with 1000d externally and 500d internally with webbing, Velcro, etc.
You can really get a feel for the clam shell opening of the pack with these shots.
The back panel with the straps, using "ITW Web Dominators" to keep the webbing under control.
Since I forgot to add the points to attach the compression straps, I just connected "repair" clips to the webbing. The bottom one was long enough that I could just use a spare buckle.
I am happy to answer any questions about this project. Feel free to email me at pdimarco65@gmail.com. Or, if you want to see stuff I make and sell, visit my Etsy shop at www.thewindwardrail.com.
UPDATE 4/20/17: Added a back pouch
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